The Business of Being Beautiful

May 13 2010, 4:00pm

La Toilette. Turkish School, 18th century. Carlton Hobbs LLC.

“La toilette,” a term first used in the 16th century, describes “the process by which aristocrats prepared themselves every morning to face the world.”1 It was a long and complex exercise, which could be estimated to last at three hours from start to finish, and included the preparation of the skin, makeup, perfume and coiffure. In the 18th century the toilette evolved from a dressing procedure to an all-out ceremony or performance. “The most stylish citizens of Versailles adored showing themselves off while they were in the process of being dressed.”2 The term is also applied to furniture of the boudoir such; a dressing table, such as the one below, and all appurtenances are also considered the toilette or table de toilette. French dressing table, circa 1765-70 by Jacques Bircklé. Victoria &Albert Museum.

The 18th century Turkish school painting above, entitled “La Toilette,” is a recent addition to the Carlton Hobbs collection. It belongs to a long history of paintings illustrating this grooming ritual. Below are five other examples of women at their toilette, which span the 16th through the 20th century. Vénus à sa Toilette. Titien, 1555.

Die eitle Alte (Vain Old Woman). Bernardo Strozzi, c. 1625.

La Toilette. François Boucher, 1742.

La Toilette. Eva Gonzalès, 1879. Femme à la Toilette. Pablo Picasso, 1906.

Footnotes: 1.DeJean, Joan E. The Essence of Style: How the French Invented High Fashion, Fine Food, Chic Cafés, Style, Sophistication, and Glamour. New York: Free Press, 2005. 251. 2. Ibid. 252.